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I’m sorry, I’ve been away from the forums for a few days. It’s very rare that I’ve seen a feeder motor be the issue. Is your knurled sleeve still tightly in position?

What size nozzle setting and layer height are you using when you slice? You mentioned correcting the diameter–is the diameter of your filament not 2.

What diameter is it? You can also try loosening the 4 screws holding the feeder housing on by a quarter turn each. If they’re too tight, you can get under extrusion. Thanks for your reply. I’ve taken a break from it but will continue to fiddle around later and will post here when I do.

The feeder motor stopped clicking so much after I cleaned the nozzle, so perhaps I made some progress there. I had to look up what a “knurled sleeve” is It’s the thing rotates, grips and pushes the filament right? I’ll look when I go home. How would I know if it was loose?

Layer height of 0. I should try changing back to my silver PLA and see if that works. It’s supposed to be 2. I’ve ordered a micrometer to accurately measure the diameter didn’t have one but I wanted one anyway.

Finally I’ve been getting some “melting” on fine details with this white filament. Sorry about that. Early on the knurled sleeve was 12mm long and seated at the edge of the shaft. Later, a 15mm sleeve was used instead so filament didn’t slip behind the edge of the sleeve. There was an intermediate period where the 12mm sleeve was recessed 3mm from the end of the shaft. Your sleeve should be secure on the shaft we use Loctite to hold in in place , and the set screw should be tightened down to the flat side of the motor shaft for added stability.

The faster you print, the more likely you will be to get shaking and lose quality. It’s a good idea to check the diameter if you’re not sure; I haven’t used that particular filament, so I can’t really say anything about it one way or another. If you’re checking the diameter the best way to check it is to pick a point, check it, rotate it 90 degrees, and check again, then repeat this at several spots along the filament.

You want it to not only be 2. With your UM2 feeder, if the printer can’t keep up it will skip back rather than grinding the filament.

Something small that’s a bit of an extreme example definitely doesn’t quite have enough cooling time generally with PLA. You could either slow it down when it gets to that point if you’re near the printer, or you could print 2 at once, or, add a second item a thin post for example at the other side of the printer.

It will have to go and work on that and then come back, which should give it ample time to cool. With something like this dragon it’s one of my favorite models , the printer had a little more time to cool going between the 2 wing tips, which helped it turn out well. Still, with the white and with the change in filament brand, you may want to try turning down the temperature to or I think the prettiest Ultimaker robot I ever printed was a The overhangs were beautiful.

I only got changes by changing the individual numbers in the “Advanced” tab, which are different, such as reducing the infill speed. My caliper arrived and the “2. I might also try the original grey PLA at home to confirm.

That means there’s something wrong with my home U2 printer. Certainly, my brief attempt at ABS gave me a lot of grief with burnt particles of that clogging up the nozzle.

So perhaps I’ll try disassembling the print head again and following the slightly scary instructions that say to reheat the head, while keeping it from burning adjacent wires, and then clean out with a Q-tip or similar. My home printer is showing a bunch of symptoms right now that might all boil down to an underextrusion problem: incomplete infill, too “melty” appearance at the standard C temperature.

If I reduce to C, the detail improves but the feeder motor “tocking” comes back and the first layer no longer sticks to the build plate reliably any more, despite it being level and clean maybe not enough material to stick. I dont’ recommend it. Do you have the Olsson block? I recommend that as then you can just unscrew the nozzle and clean it or replace ti for a quick test. The “tock” or “nock” or whaver sound from the feeder has nothing to do with tension.

It is a skip back on the stepper motor because it can only push so hard – about 10 pounds pressure which is a ton – more than I can push manually without breaking the filament. Enough to pick the printer right up off the table. I suspect you need to change your white teflon part. Even though you said it looks fine I’m pretty sure it’s been softened after those hours of printing. The new teflon parts aren’t white -they are white but transluscent. You can kind of see through them.

The new ones can handle much higher temperatures so you probably won’t have to change the new one. This will create extra space in the feeder, allowing the material to be easily moved through it.

This can be done by blowing the particles out of the feeder or using a small brush e. To find out how to do this, click here. Note: If there are any small particles in the Bowden tube, this must be cleaned too.

Some degraded material could be present in the print core that prevents good extrusion and therefore causes grinding of the filament in the feeder. This especially occurs when the grinding was found out late and material is heated in the nozzle without movement for prolonged time. In this case, the nozzles or print cores should be cleaned internally.

This can be done with hot and cold pulls. More information of this procedure can be found in this page. DidierKlein Posted January 25, Hi, What happens exactly? If the filament is grinded then it must be blocked somewhere? JohnG 0 Posted January 29, Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community.

Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account? Sign In Now. Go to topic listing. Our picks New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Hi, Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process.

A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. Recommended Posts. JohnG 0 Posted January 25, Hi I have a brand new UM3 and after printing a couple of prints print head 1 stopped extruding pla silver that came with in the box. Thanks JohnG. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options DidierKlein Posted January 25, Hi, What happens exactly?

If the filament is grinded then it must be blocked somewhere? JohnG 0 Posted January 29, Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community.

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Ultimaker 3 extended feeder tension free – Related Posts

Continue Shopping View Cart. Since the temp sensor cable is pretty slick, if you open up the electronics cover and pull out the existing cable from the TEMP 1 slot, you should be able to feed the wire up pretty easily through the black mesh.❿

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